A Cider Evaluation Standard

By American standards, Asturian ciders are classified as “heritage ciders”. I find this a very apt classification, as Asturian style sidra natural is far closer to what was once America’s National Beverage than any cider on the market in the USA today. As a matter of fact, in the mid-18th century, the average Massachusetts resident was drinking nearly 35 gallons of cider a year - a cider very very close in style and flavor to what is made in Asturias today. For more on that, check out my Comparison of American and Asturian Ciders article.

The US Association of Cider Makers Cider Style Guideline for these Heritage Ciders is, in full:

Appearance – Typically yellow to amber in color. Ranges from brilliant to hazy, depending on the cider maker’s intention.

Varieties – Commonly used varieties include Dabinett (bittersweet), Kingston Black (bittersharp), Roxbury Russet (American heirloom) and Wickson (crab)

Aroma/Flavor – Complexity derived from the cider maker’s selection of apples and production techniques. Common attributes include increased astringency, bitterness and complex aromatics

— USACM Cider Style Guidelines, Version 2.0

While that is fine as far as it goes, it doesn’t really capture the depth and nuance of Asturian (or other European) ciders. For that reason, among others, I set out to write down a somewhat formal style standard guideline that would more accurately represent the way cider is evaluated and talked about here in Asturias. I take no credit for having developed, invented, or authored any of the standards below.

What I have done is systematize and write down in English the way Asturians who are serious about their cider already speak and think about the local sidra natural.

The goal of Asturian cider making is to create a cider that is alma. That very specific Asturian term means a cider that has “good balanced organoleptic qualities and behaves well in the glass”. The most Asturian way to describe a cider that is alma is to say ye de bon palu – 'it has good qualities'.

Appearance

Asturians put great stock in the proper appearance and presentation of the cider. Perhaps more so than anywhere else I’ve ever drunk cider. For that reason, there is a well-developed vocabulary in Asturias for describing the visual aspects of sidra natural. I provide an English language version of that vocabulary in my Asturian Cider Lexicon.

When all of these aspects of the cider evaluation standard are well presented and the standard has been met, the cider is said to have dar la cara – shown its face. On the contrary, a cider which has not achieved this balance is said to nun dar la cara – hide its face, or ta gacho – be downcast.

Clarity

Strangely enough however, there is little written about the clarity of the cider in Asturian. Perhaps this is a result of most cider falling into a very narrow band of colors and clarities. However, it is worth noting whether or not the cider is:

• Brilliant
• Bright
• Hazy
• Cloudy

Espalme (carbonation)

After the cider is poured into the glass, look to the action of the carbonation. This is a very important part of the Asturian cider evaluation standard. The goal is a cider that has lively carbonation, but not so much as to be like a commercial carbonated cider. The tiny foamy bubbles must disappear quickly, leaving a nice supply of larger bubbles that remain long enough to allow the cider to be drunk.

• Plasmáu: no detectable carbon dioxide
• Desvanecíu: very little carbon dioxide, dissipating too quickly
• Panizal: lively carbon dioxide, well balanced
• Volador: highly carbonated; but not to the point of flying corks
• Axiblatau – an excess of carbon dioxide, over carbonated

Pegue

Often referred to in American cider tasting as “tears” or “legs” in wine tasting. Here we are looking for a thin film that adheres to the glass after it is drunk.

Mouthfeel

Mouthfeel refers to the physical sensations (as opposed to the aromas and flavors) of the cider. It refers to textures that touch the tongue, roof of the mouth, teeth, throat, and to some extent, the aftertaste sensations.

Body (Cuerpu)

This is a much-discussed aspect of sidra natural in Asturias, and forms an integral part of this cider evaluation standard. The body balance necessary to be both a satisfying drink and to “behave well in the glass” is a delicate balancing act.

• Light
• Medium
• Full

As with all things in this evaluation standard, balance is the goal. A nice medium body is the standard and excessively light or excessively heavy and thick are both defects.

Balance

It is also important to look at the balance between the apple flavor and the alcohol sensation. Once again, balance is the name of the game.

• Floxu: insipid
• Tiernu: low alcohol and flat, from not being fermented long enough. “too young”
• Finu: a cider that is “clean”, “clear”, and “balanced” – The ideal cider flavor profile
• Fechu: A full bodied cider with high alcohol content and a strong flavor
• Mui Fechu: overly strong and becoming vinegary. “gone off”

Aromas & Flavors

Sidra natural has a set of basic aromas and flavors that, to one degree or another, all examples exhibit. Here I rate the relative strength of those basic flavors, and afterwards discuss any additional flavor or aroma components that are noteworthy.

Apple Flavors

As with all things in the Asturian cider evaluation standard, we are looking for a good balance between sweet and tart apple flavors.

• Verdín: excessive flavors of unripe apples
• Apple forward
• Balanced apple flavors
• Sweet apples (table apples)
• Overly ripe / wine like apple flavor

Alcohol Flavors

Good, properly balanced, cider has a faint whiff of alcohol and a sort of mildly boozy flavor.

• Agüina - non-alcoholic or none detected
• Blandu - Faintly alcoholic
• Alma - Balanced alcohol
• Cantarina - A cider that invites singing in public, because of the excess of alcohol. A very high alcohol cider.
• Encabazáu - "fortified" Has additional alcohol added to cover defects

Acetic or Vinegary Flavors

Asturian cider is decidedly more acidic than most North American ciders, so be aware that these standards are relative to other Asturian ciders. No table apples are used in the making of sidra natural, and so the range is from (to an American palate) Tart to Vinegar.

• Fema: low or undetectable amounts of acetic acid
• Pleasant balanced acetic qualities
• Machu: A very full bodied cider with much more acetic notes and very little sweetness.
• Pa la fábrica: noticeably off, and best for making vinegar
• Resquemor: this is already vinegar. Attacks the tongue

Astringency

Tannins live in a very complicated relationship to acids. That interplay defines the very soul of sidra. Especially in more traditional llagares where wooden barrels are used, balancing the tannins is a dark art. As with all things in evaluating Asturian cider, balance is what we want here. A refreshingly dry cider that is not overly soft and sweet on the one hand, nor overly tannic and puckery on the other.

• de Restallu: Strong, astringent, mouth-puckering cider.
• Agrín: Strong, dry, cider.
• Secante: refreshingly dry and stimulating to the palate.
• Fema: more sweet than tart, with little acidity or astringency, without any strong notes.
• Dulcín: unwanted levels of sweetness due to incomplete fermentation.

Other Flavors

While there can be a whole galaxy of additional flavors and aromas in sidra natural, there are also a few to guard against. In particular the three below are serious defects.

• Ñisu – A flavor of wild plums (Prunus insititia L.). Said to be “cider so bad that it seems to not be made of apples”
• Tastu – An off flavor reminiscent of pork, or more generally barnyard flavors. Almost always this is a result of too-high temperature during fermentation.
• Turrín – A disagreeable taste of hazelnuts pervades the cider.

Outside of those, citrus and floral notes are very common, as are mineral and metallic notes.

Overall Impression

Summing up the rating of an Asturian cider requires thinking about how all the preceding things come together. Is this an average cider – good but not great? Does it have some sort of defect? If I do find an egregious defect, I usually set aside the review and wait until I can buy another bottle from a different lot and compare.

Or is this cider a world-beater? Redondo as they say here. Or slightly less than that, is it pistonudo, a really great example of the style?

Some examples of common descriptions of the overall character of Asturian ciders to use in an evaluation standard:

• Redondo – “well rounded”. High quality, perfectly balanced. Perfect taste, color, and behavior in the glass. The best of the best.
• Pistonudo – Very good quality and taste.
• Cabezón – bad quality, headache inducing.
• Puxarra – The equivalent to the French term “petit cidre” – a watered down fraud masquerading as a proper cider.