Gamonéu del Valle
There are two versions of the Gamonéu cheese. One is made seasonally in the upper reaches of the Picos de Europa mountain range. From June to September, Gamonéu del Puerto is made. At lower elevations, on small farms, this version, Gamonéu del Valle, is made year round.
Where Is It From?
Gamonéu del Valle is produced in small family-owned cheese factories in the western massif of the Picos de Europa, specifically in villages located in the lower areas of the councils of Onís and Cangas de Onís. And both the production of milk, as well as the manufacture and maturation of the cheese, take place within these eastern areas of the Principality of Asturias. These farms and cheese factories are subjected to periodic inspections and controls to verify that the requirements set by the regulatory regulations of the D.O.P. “Gamonéu” or “Gamonedo“
How Gamonéu del Valle Is Made
Gamonéu (also known as Gamonedo) is made with a blend of three milks (80% cow/15% goat/5% sheep).
The cheese is lightly pressed. After that, it is smoked for 10 days. By law, the aging of the cheeses must occur in the Cangas and Onís areas, but it takes place in both caves and cellars. The minimum aging period is two months. Some makers age the cheeses for up to 5 months. The cheeses are turned and cleaned frequently during this aging.
There are a total of twelve farms producing Gamonéu del Valle, all located in the Picos de Europa mountains, in the concejos of Onís and Cangas de Onís.
History
One often sees two references repeated verbatim for the earliest mentions of queso Gamonéu: a letter in 1641 to king Felipe IV concerning the use of pastures, (…servía de sustento “a los pobres del concejo”, según figura en un escrito de 1.641 al Rey Felipe IV…) and a mention in El Diccionario geográfico-estadístico-histórico de España y sus posesiones de Ultramar by Pascual Madoz.
Of the first claim, I will say only this: not one claim for this document’s existence has ever pointed to a reference number, title, or even author. Therefore, it can be dismissed out of hand as a complete fabrication. However, the Diccionario Geográfico exists, and thanks to the Bibliothéque nationale de France can be searched. Of the 25 times the author mentions queso only two are in Asturias, and neither name a cheese at all. They are mentions of the general state of the dairy industries in towns
Unsubstantiated claims aside, the origins of Gamonéu cheese are lost to time. The same goes for any definitive statement as to its popularity at any one time before very recently. Like many Asturian cheeses, it was long a local product, for local consumption. That meant either within the family or traded with neighbors.
Uses For Gamonéu del Valle
Gamonéu is a star cheese on a cheese board. Given its development – only partially veined by the penicillium, it is usually eaten by itself.
Honestly, I like this cheese so much I make a bread specifically designed to bring out the best in it.
Where To Find Gamonéu del Valle
Gamonéu is a cheese that Asturias is rightly proud of, and it’s easy to find throughout the region. While it can be found in some supermarkets, it does not have the wide retail footprint of a cheese like Cabrales. It is more common to find in shops that specialize in Asturian products. It is also found in many local food stores. The smaller the better, usually.
In October of each year, the Certamen del Queso de Gamonéu happens in Benia de Onís. This certamen is a cross between a regional festival and a cheese market. The gathering is officially to give awards to the best cheese producers in the DOP. For visitors however, it is a weekend of live music, local food and drink, and general merrymaking.
Forever Cheese in Long Island City NY can arrange import of Gamonéu (Gamonedo) into the United States for you, through your local cheese monger.
