Pixín

From Eating Asturias, the Encyclopedia of Asturian Gastronomy

Pixín, or Monkfish to Americans, is one of the culinary delights not just of Asturias but of the whole of southern Europe. Known for its firm texture and sweet flavor that some compare to lobster, it is beloved throughout the region. There are two species of note in southern European cuisines; the Lophius budegassa of the Mediterranean and the Lophius piscatorius of the colder Atlantic waters.

History

As far back as we can tell, Monkfish was a poor person's fish, like pretty much all ugly fish. Prior to the Modern period, almost all fish were cooked and served at the table whole, so the visual impact of the fish was at least as important as its flavor and aroma. This essentially banished a number of incredibly delicious species, monkfish among them, from the tables of the great and good. As a result, some of the best eating was to be had far from those tables, in more humble surroundings where other techniques were used to prepare the "ugly" fish for dinner.

Examples include the Portugese caldeirada tamboril, a succulent monkfish stew, and the Asturian fritos de pixín, deep-fried monkfish bites.

Previously used as a lobster substitute in soups and stews, it is now sought after in its own right. This has, of course, raised prices out of the reach of the people previously "condemned" to eating this ugly fish.

Uses in Asturian Cooking

Asturians do not avoid a fish simply because it might be ugly. As a matter of fact, it is commonly understood that when it comes to seafood, the uglier the fish the tastier the meat. This is certainly true of the pixín, which is always one of the first fish to sell out in seafood stalls throughout the region. While fabada and cachopo might be more famous exemplars of standard Asturian cuisine outside of the region, pixín takes pride of place within Asturias as a marker of "proper" Asturian food.

While there are dozens of pixín recipes in Asturias, the most famous, by far, is fritos de pixín, breaded and deep-fried chunks of delicately marinaded monkfish. These sweet bites of faintly briny goodness are best enjoyed on a terraza in front of a sidrería on a summer day while drinking sidra natural.