Quesu de Varé Ecológico
Introduced in 2002, the organic cow’s milk cheese from Queso de Varé is part of a line up of impressive farmstead cheeses from this, the first producer of organic cheeses in Asturias.
As it is probably obvious, I am an enormous fan of the cheeses of Asturias. A large part of what makes me so excited about them is the variety. There are Asturian cheeses for almost every conceivable use and dish. While the locals tend mostly to eat cheese out of hand or as a simple tapa, I am always on the lookout for cheeses that can also be used in my recipes. This is one of the more versatile I have found.
Where Is It From?
Anita González Tresguerres runs her organic farm and dairy, Alto de la Madera, in the village of Varé in Siero. Located very near to the capital Oviedo, Siero has two aspects. Partially known for its hyper-urbanized areas around Lugones and Pola de Siero, it is also a region of gently rolling hills full of cattle farms. It is in this second part of Siero that you will find the farming village of Varé.
How Quesu de Varé Ecológico Is Made
As with all of the cheeses Anita makes, this one begins on her farm, with her animals. Using commercial rennet, Anita ferments pasteurized milk before cutting the curds to “the size of grains of rice”. The curds are then drained and pressed for 4 hours. Anita then brines the cheeses, leaving them as such for 12 to 24 hours depending on the size of the wheels. After brining, she moves them to the maturation cave, and there they stay for a minimum of 60 days. The cave maintains a constant temperature of 14° C and a relative humidity of 80%. Once aged, the cheeses are wrapped and labeled.
History
In 1990, amidst a series of government programs aimed at protecting traditional foodstuffs, Anita joined the resurgence in Asturian cheese making with her first farmstead cheese. That raw goats milk cheese has since led to a variety of others, including this one.
After a dozen years making exclusively goat’s milk cheeses, Anita expanded in 2002 into making cow’s milk cheeses as well.
Uses For Quesu de Varé Ecológico
When you find this cheese in a bar or restaurant in Asturias, it is almost always as a tapa. I agree whole-heatedly that the only thing this cheese needs to accompany it is a slice of nice bread or a cracker. And some cider, of course.
How I Use It: Crumbled into cold pasta salad, this makes a nice change of pace from feta. And in hot pasta dishes it melts as readily as a good buffalo mozzarella. Speaking of melting, I think it is fabulous melted over the aforementioned bread.
Where To Find Quesu de Varé Ecológico
Obviously, the best place to get this, and the rest of the Queso de Varé offerings, is from Anita herself. Arrange a visit or tour by calling 985 920 779. If you would prefer to visit with an English speaking guide, check out my food-oriented tours of Asturias.
If you are within the EU, you can order Queso de Varé Organic Cow’s Milk Cheese from Aítor Vega via his excellent 250gramosdequeso website.
Unfortunately for those of you in the United States, there is no current importer for this cheese. You will have to wait until you visit Asturias to get some.
