Tarta de Queso de Cabra

Cheesecake is a supposedly ancient Greek invention. Supposedly first attested to in the 5th century BCE by the Greek physician Aegimus, who wrote an entire cookbook on making various styles of cheesecake. Unfortunately that book is lost to history, if indeed it ever existed. The earliest known recipe for cheesecake is from four hundred years later.

However, these historical cheesecakes were nothing like what we enjoy these days. Yeasted and heavily flavored with savory ingredients, they were nothing like a dessert. That would have to wait until the 16th century.

From this point, cheesecake as we know it begins to develop. Here, at the very beginning of regularly published cookery books, in one of the first in the English language, we have what is essentially a modern cheesecake. Gone are the flour, yeast, bay leaves, and other savory ingredients of previous recipes. Made with minimal ingredients – cheese, milk, eggs, sugar, butter – this is something of a radical departure from the past. It also provides the model for all future European cheesecakes.

American Cheesecakes

This provided the model for American cheesecakes as well. American (first New York) style cheesecakes owe their existence to efforts by New York dairymen in the late 19th century trying to recreate French Neufchâtel cheese. William Lawrence of Chester, New York (perhaps one of many) came up with a formula for an un-ripened cheese that was even richer and creamier (which quickly gained the name ‘cream cheese’). By 1880 Empire Cheese Company of New York began producing PHILADELPHIA BRAND Cream Cheese for a New York distributor called Reynolds. In 1912, James Kraft developed a method to pasteurize cream cheese (Philadelphia cream cheese), and soon other manufacturers of dairy products offered this newer kind of cream cheese.

Spanish Cheesecakes Generally

The Spanish cheesecakes (Basque Burnt Cheesecake notwithstanding, see below) follow the same general pattern as the Italian ones. Ricotta cheese instead of cream cheese, a lot less sugar, and more of a spongy texture. The Asturian tradition goes even further. Removing almost every ingredient that isn’t in the 1575 recipe, you then use a goat cheese for the ricotta. This starts to return the flavor profile to the pre-dessert stage of cheesecake history.

The tarta de queso la Viña, or as it has come to be called “Basque burnt cheesecake” is the invention of Santiago Rivera Jiménez, chef-owner of La Viña restaurant in Donostia/San Sebastián. Chef Jiménez invented it in 1990. It is crustless, and unlike other cheesecakes, baked at high heat until both top and bottom burn, thus creating a solid crusty layer.

Ingredients

Equipment

• 9” springform pan

For the Crust

• 100 g Galletas María cookies. Feel free to substitute graham crackers
• 25 g granulated sugar.
• 30 g salted butter.

For the Filling

• 3 large eggs.
• 150 g granulated sugar.
• 150 g Goat’s milk ricotta. Sold as queso fresco de cabra in Spain
• 250 g heavy cream.
• 10 g all-purpose flour.

Instructions

For The Crust

1. Crush the cookies in a food processor or put them in a zippered bag and crush them with a rolling pin.
2. Mix the cookie crumbs, melted butter, and granulated sugar together until it becomes thick, sandy grains. Press the mixture into the bottom of a 9 inch springform pan. Use the bottom of a flat measuring cup to press it down. Make sure it is tight and compact.
3. You can prebake the crust for 10 minutes or so if you love a crispy crust. I never do, and mine turns out fine.

For The Filling

1. In your mixer (stand or handheld), mix the eggs until frothy.
2. Add the sugar and mix until the color changes to a pale yellow.
3. Add the butter and mix until well combined.
4. Add the goat cheese, cream, and flour. Mix on low speed for just long enough to combine the ingredients.

To Bake

1. Heat your oven to 190°C (375°F).
2. Pour the mix over your prepared base.
3. Carefully move the springform pan onto a baking sheet and put the baking sheet in the oven.
4. bake until the center is well set and only barely jiggles, if at all. Approximately 35 minutes.
5. Cool completely before unmolding and serving.