Afuega’l Pitu Roxu
This cheese comes in two variations. There is a basic version that I have covered previously, and this, possibly the most unique cheese in Asturias. Afuega’l pitu roxu is part of a cheese making tradition that is confined (as far I know) solely to Spain. Sure, Slovakia and Hungary have cheese spreads made with paprika[1], and a few American cheese makers rub paprika on the rind of their cheeses. But only in Spain have I seen paprika kneaded into the curd itself.[2]
There is a bit of a linguistic disagreement about what the name afuega’l pitu actually means. One camp translates the name literally into Castilian Spanish as “ahogar el pollo” or “drown the chicken”. The second camp, which includes the DOP regulator, claim a local slang meaning for pitu is the throat or gullet, giving the cheese the name of “sticks in the throat”.
Given both that the prior name for the cheese was, literally, “the fist”, and that it does have a tendency to remind one of its existence for quite a while after being swallowed, I am going to have to declare myself a member of the “sticks in the throat” interpretation camp.
Where Is It From?
Once made all over Asturias, production is now limited to a small group of conceyos. The DOP lists eight individual producers who are part of the DOP:
- Tierra de Tineo
- Quesería Agrovaldés
- Quesería Ca Sanchu
- Quesería El Viso
- Quesería La Arquera
- Quesería La Borbolla
- Quesería La Peñona
- Quesería Temia
How Afuega’l Pitu Roxu Is Made
Afuega’l Pitu cheese makers use only milk from farms located in the protected geographical area. Either pasteurized milk or raw milk is used, according to the choice of the cheese maker. If raw milk is used, the cheese must be aged for a minimum of 60 days.
The Afuega’l Pitu cheese curd is an acidic type, made slowly over a period of 15-20 hours at a temperature of 22-32 ºC. Once this natural curdling process is finished, the cheese maker transfers the curd to the molds. The cheese then drains in these molds for 24 hours.
After these 24 hours, the cheese maker either packs the curds into the final shaped mold for the antroncau shape or wraps it in cheesecloth for the trapu shape. At this stage the cheese maker adds pimentón if they are making the roxu varieties. After that, the cheese rests in the mold for another 24 hours.
The cheeses are then matured. Cheeses made with pasteurized milk will age for a minimum of five days. Raw milk cheeses age for a minimum of 60 days.
History
In the 18th century, this type of cheese, called at that time quesu puñu, was widespread throughout Asturias. There are records of it being used as a currency for paying taxes during this time. Octavio Bellmunt and Fermín Canella attest to the widespread adoption of this cheese, calling it as “the currents everywhere called from afuega el pitu or by other names.”[3]
Félix Pío de Aramburu y Zuloaga in his Monografía de Asturias described it at the end of the 19th century as the “primitive puñu cheese or from afuega el pitu that is common in almost all the councils of Asturias”.[4]
For most of history, cheese in Asturias was a decidedly homemade product. Only in the 1980’s did professional cheese making come about. The DOP was created in 2003 and has regulated the production standards of afuega’l pitu cheese since.
Uses For Afuega’l Pitu Roxu
As with most cheeses in Asturias, people commonly eat it out of hand, as a part of a cheese tray or as a snack. Afuega’l pitu is also used in a variety of common recipes in Asturias, from salads to desserts.
I enjoy afuega’l pitu in a couple of additional ways. Even the most aged varieties melt wonderfully crumbled into hot pasta dishes. It also makes a really nice melted cheese toast under the broiler. This is doubly true for this spicier version. Cheese toast and grilled cheese sandwiches are amazing with this cheese.
Where To Find Afuega’l Pitu Roxu
Afuega’l pitu is something of a rarity on restaurant menus, especially by itself. It may show up on a tabla de quesos in the sorts of places that pride themselves on showcasing DOP products. It is common enough in high end restaurants as an ingredient in desserts. Tartas and milhojas are common.
The only importer I am aware of in the States that carries afuega’l pitu is Despaña. If you know of another supplier, let me know in the comments.
- ↑ Liptauer and Kőrözött, respectively.
- ↑ Spain has pimentón infused cheeses from Asturias, Extremadura, Murcia, Castile–La Mancha, and even a variety preserved in pimentón oil (Payoya from Andalucía)
- ↑ Bellmunt y Traver, Octavio, and Fermín Canella y Secades. Asturias: su historia y monumentos, bellezas y recuerdos, costumbres y tradiciones, el bable, asturianos ilustres, agricultura e industria, estadística. Órbigo, 2014.
- ↑ Aramburu y Zuloaga, Félix de. Monografía de Asturias. s.n., 1899.
