Longaniza de Avilés

Longaniza d'Avilés

In Spain, a longaniza is generally a cured pork sausage in a natural casing. This of course, leads to some confusion about where longaniza ends and chorizo begins. Fortunately, in Asturias there is no confusion, because longaniza here means something entirely different! In Asturias, longaniza means Longaniza de Avilés. And Longaniza de Avilés means essentially Kielbasa. Yep. Polish sausage in the land of pimentón.

Sausage Nomenclature

What do I mean by Kielbasa anyway? For a German or American consumer, the working definition is pretty much the same – an umbrella term for any Polish style sausage in a natural casing. Usually sold fresh (uncured) or smoked, they are favorites for grilling, poaching, frying, and slicing to add to other recipes. For my purposes, a sausage is minced or ground meat mixed with spices and stuffed into a casing. There are three types of sausage: dried, smoked, and fresh. A bratwurst is any sausage meant to be grilled and served on a bun. This does not do proper justice to the incredible variety of sausage in Poland (Kielbasa being the Polish word for Sausage, and used just as broadly there).

Regardless of what we call it in our home countries, Longaniza de Avilés is a wonderful thing for those of us who really like this style of sausage. It is very nice to have a local product that can stand in for imported sausages in things like Broccoli and Sausage Pasta or Sausage & Potato Tray Bake. It gives me a way to locally reproduce those recipes I’ve been cooking for decades now. And given the low availability and high prices of import products in Spain, the variety is welcome.

The old town part of Avilés

Welcome to Avilés

Avilés is old. Really old. Upper-Paleolithic settlement re-named for a Roman (Abilius), fishing port pre-dating the Magna Carta old. But Avilés is not famous for being old, if indeed it is properly famous for anything.

No. Avilés is famous for something far more modern. Coal. Steel. Shipping. Industrial Estates. And the direct speaking, hard drinking fisherman, dockers, and factory workers who made Avilés what it is today. And it is a place that is in no way ashamed of its industrial character. Avilés does not put on airs and attempt to be a hip gritty tourist mecca for the cooler-than-thou exposed brickwork in a cold-pressed coffee bar kind of way.

It also happens to be the home town of Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, who explored Florida in the 16th century and founded in 1565 the first successful (continuously populated) European town in what is now the United States, San Agustín (now St. Augustine, Florida).

Longaniza de Avilés History

This sausage is the trademark of the Vallina company – one of the largest makers of sausages and related products in Asturias.

There is a story floating around the internet that in the 1970s the factory hired a German employee who introduced the recipe to them. Where these stories come from, I have no idea, but almost all of them are debunked with the most cursory of investigations.

In reality this longaniza blanca has been in the repertoire of the company since it was a small butcher shop in 1903. Carnicería Vallina was in competition with another local butcher and they attempted to outdo each other with new sausages. This was the winner, and over time became a symbol not just of Vallina, but of Avilés itself.

Where to Eat Longaniza de Avilés

Casa Lin – the reference standard in Avilés

I’ll not bore you with recipes for using Longaniza de Avilés. You know exactly how you like to use this type of sausage, and you’re unlikely to find it in the States. Hell, you’re unlikely to find it in Spain outside of Asturias. But any kielbasa will do in a pinch if you find yourself inspired to boil some with potatoes like they do here.

I will tell you that you need to have it in the city of Avilés, in the local style. That means boiled with cachelos – rustic chunks of potato. (See Pepe Iglesias’ impassioned defense of the rustic cut potato). It is shockingly hard to find this dish outside of the city of Avilés, but as easy as picking a sidrería at random in the city. Three things are guaranteed when you walk into a tavern of any size of shape in Avilés. There will be:

1. Cider
2. Seafood
3. Longaniza with potatoes

If choosing a place to eat at random is not your thing, then head to Casa Lin on Avenida de los Telares. While they are famous for their inventive seafood cooking, they are also one of the best places to get longaniza con cachelos. They also happen to be one of the most popular places in Avilés to drink cider, so don’t expect quiet conversation and dim lights…